We really hope you find it useful. But, I might end up with these superlights replacing the old-style DMM offsets. I've stopped carrying non offset nuts (I'm partial to the dmms, not a huge fan of the wild country ones) when I'm guiding unless I'm explicitly introducing a climber to trad. About the DMM Alloy Offset Add a set of DMM Alloy Offsets to your conventional nut set to add a touch of versatility to your rack. I have a set of small dmm offsets I got on sale and they’ve proven handy but not much more than regular nuts. Sep 26, 2025 · Putting the DMM HB Alloy Offset Through Its Paces The DMM HB Alloy Offset is a uniquely shaped piece of climbing protection designed to fit where other nuts fail. When they were released, they were considered a niche piece, but now they're the gold standard of passive protection. The DMM Alloy Offset Nuts are made with a carefully considered head geometry so that they fit securely into placements where cams or regular nuts would be unstable, flared cracks and peg scars are good examples. I want to get a new set of nuts and have really like the DMM Offset nuts but the BD ones look just the same with the benefit of the color coding matching the standard BD ones. Apr 4, 2025 · Our in-depth reviews cover other types of climbing protection like nuts and stoppers as well as carabiners and quickdraws. Personally I barely even place nuts anymore and most of my climbing partners also don’t place nuts. These Offset nuts are based on the famed HB Alloy Offsets and have colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening holes in the largest two sizes to reduce weight. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all season crack protection. Occasionally I climbed with friends who had a set, and they always seemed to work really well. 00 (3) 3 reviews with an average rating of 5. These nuts are specifically designed for aid climbing and protecting extremely thin cracks where standard-sized gear simply won’t fit. But no one explains in detail exactly why they are better than the standard non-offset nuts I have (DMM wallnuts, like op). Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. Toby Archer, a big fan of the old HB Offsets, goes out cragging and takes them through their paces. Dec 13, 2009 · DMM Wallnuts look different than most other Climbing Nuts they feature a small groove running vertically up one side of their head. DMM have brought an old favourite back to the market, Alloy Offsets. Some reviews say that if the offsets are used as typical placements (opposed to say flared cracks) they can slip out under a leader fall, the guy who recommended them said that's just poor placement. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features. Black Diamond also use a harder alloy than DMM do on their offering. He finds them lacking in one Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular "brassy" or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. These Offsets are an improved design based on the classic HB Offsets which were discontinued in 2005. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. The overwhelming consensus recommendation always seems to be for these DMM alloy offsets. Also available as a set from 7-11. Is it because the shape gives you more options depending on the side you place against the crack? DMM HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 $112. For complete protection, pair with Wallnuts. HB Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. DMM Offsets are conveniently colour coded in the same colours as the equivalent sized Wild Country Rock. Thoughts? Anyone have experience with this? TL:DR Would you rather carry only DMM offset nuts or BD stoppers? The DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 contains one of each size of offset nut in the range from 7 through 11. 5 peaks for not covering a few more larger sizes for scrambling, but I am nitpicking. com : DMM Alloy Offsets : Sports & Outdoors Alloy Offsets excel in safeguarding irregular and flared cracks that standard nuts miss. Of course, we cover the other protection essentials too, choosing our favorite climbing ropes and outlining the best climbing harnesses. Shortly after that conversation I randomly (not by design of course) found myself in at Desert Rock Sports in Vegas looking at a nice shiny set of DMM offset nuts while trying to justify why the complete rack of nuts already on my rack were insufficient to the task at hand. There aren’t really any “accessories” or “customization options” available for these in the traditional sense. When they were released, they were considered a niche piece, but now I’ve been playing with the DMM Offset nuts for a few years and they've become a permanent part of my go-to rack though I’ve found that the rock type really Sep 21, 2022 · There seem to be DMM halfnuts, Wild country superlight rocks in sizes 1-7 and WC superlight offset nuts in the bigger sizes. 5 peaks Some reviews say that if the offsets are used as typical placements (opposed to say flared cracks) they can slip out under a leader fall, the guy who recommended them said that's just poor placement. These two factors combine to give a nut which just doesn’t bite as well in placements. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Their relativity simple shape makes it easy for beginners to assess the quality of their placements. They are the same nuts created by legendary climber Hugh Banner back in the '60s, with a renovated design that renders them much lighter while still preserving their strength. The last few years have seen several manufacturers produce many varieties of offset nuts, and while these now have a lot of worthy competition, we feel they remain at the top and are often A great graphic I stole from DMM that shows the geometry of the offsets. Dec 5, 2008 · Buy the DMM Offset Nuts from Backcountry. Each size boasts a sturdy 12kN strength rating. (For £45 more you have the same but with a set of large Torque nuts to cover bigger placements if you buy DMM's full Protectio Feb 2, 2024 · However, we recommend that these nuts be an addition to a rack of nuts, supplementing the DMM Wallnuts instead of being used as a standalone set. Jan 6, 2020 · These are one of the easier micro-sized nuts to clean and are slightly easier to remove than their closest competition, the DMM HB Brass Offset. The DMM Offset Nuts offer placement opportunities when no other natural protection will fit. Order DMM Alloy Offset Nut Set 7-11 or see all our other Rocks and Nuts products. Aug 13, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. What makes DMM Alloy Offset Unique: Aug 8, 2022 · Amazon. Sizes 1-6 are made in brass. Rocks also share the same color scheme as all other DMM and Wild Country models, allowing you easily to dial your passive protection selection. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. If I could only buy one or the other, I'd probably stick to conventional nuts. Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. Made by DMM, a reputable manufacturer in the climbing world, these offsets are built to tackle those frustratingly flared and irregular cracks that plague many routes. The DMM HB Alloy Offsets have clean cut corners with a deeper scoop. Jul 28, 2025 · The DMM HB Alloy Offset set comes as a complete set of nuts, ready to be placed on your harness. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for comprehensive all-season Every Trad Climber needs a set of Wallnuts, Offset Nuts and Hexes. That being said, they're hardly “ easy ” to clean, as their offset shape means they prefer to be backed out rather than rotated upwards for removal like more traditionally shaped non-offset nuts. With a complex, offset head geometry these nuts will place securely in flared cracks where regular nuts and cams may not sit well. Use in combination with normal nuts to find security in almost any crack. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are the latest iteration of the original HB offset nut. Review DMM Offset Nut Review Features Nuts with an offset taper protect cracks where normal nuts would not sit properly, such as flared cracks and peg scars. Are these basically the same, because as far as I can tell from photos the DMM halfnuts have an offset shape? Jul 24, 2025 · Concise climbing nuts reviews tailored to your needs. DMM - Offset Nuts - Nut In customer testing Experiences and reviews Expert advice from professionals Sep 22, 2009 · Torque Nuts are DMM's solution to large passive protection. Oct 9, 2015 · In fact I have started leaving my doubled nuts in the bag and taking the set of nuts coupled with the set of offsets instead. Full set of DMM's ever-popular Wallnuts covering a broad range of sizes from small to large and their fantastic Alloy Offsets which fit in placements that no other piece of protection will fit. They are color coded for making it easy to choose among them during the Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. They are asymmetric to maximise placement options and excel in slightly flared placements like nothing else. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Offset nuts generally are an ideal addition to any rack, with the tapered design making them ideal for tapered cracks (common in the UK). Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. The Alloy Offset is a set of climbing nuts by DMM. Jan 20, 2010 · With the biggest size range of any nuts we tested, Wild Country Rocks are an awesome first set of nuts. Jul 30, 2025 · Let’s Dive into DMM IMP Brass Nut Set The DMM IMP Brass Nut Set is a collection of micro-sized climbing protection pieces from DMM, a manufacturer renowned for quality and innovation in climbing hardware. You get to double up on the middle sizes, they’re not as aggressively offset so they still work well in normal placements, and they’re significantly lighter. Passive protection can be placed either side or face on, doubling the number of cracks any single piece can protect. Because we believe the best climbing nut is not the best for everyone. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Apr 15, 2021 · In the Lakes I normally carry doubles in 1 - 7 plus DMM offsets covering sizes 3 - 7 and I'm not sure I'm ready to part with doubles for the superlights yet, but maybe in time. DMM makes some of the best gear in the heart of Wales, and I went to great lengths to test if their gear can take a fall! Irregular is better. Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. This groove helps them excel at irregular rock types such as limestone and crystallized granite. com I’d always heard how awesome the old HB Offset nuts were, especially for flaring placements, but after the company went out of business, they were a lot harder to find. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. 4. Skip the BD stoppers, also ‘meh’. DMM offsets are popular, though I prefer a the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rocks paired with the Superlight half nuts (non-offset) sets. He finds them lacking in one Jul 14, 2025 · The DMM HB Alloy Offset Set is a collection of climbing nuts designed specifically for protecting irregular and flared cracks, a common challenge faced by climbers of all levels. DMM, a respected name in climbing gear, aims to deliver a lightweight and durable solution with these wired nuts. This latest version has colour coded size labels and lightening slots instead of holes in the nuts, though the weights DMM give are the same. Save on a Set! Aluminum Alloy Offset Nuts are tapered to fit flared slots, pin scars and bottleneck cracks Oct 31, 2024 · The DMM Alloy Offset nuts are unmatched in ranking because of their overall versatility and how bomber they are in places where other pieces of protection might hold body weight only. Thoughts? Anyone have experience with this? TL:DR Would you rather carry only DMM offset nuts or BD stoppers? Feb 6, 2018 · If regular nuts and most hexes are offset when placed in their sideways position, why are offset nuts so popular and even sold? For example: Is the angle significantly different between DMM Wallnuts in their sideways position and DMM HB Alloy Offsets that they work for different placements? Apr 15, 2021 · In the Lakes I normally carry doubles in 1 - 7 plus DMM offsets covering sizes 3 - 7 and I'm not sure I'm ready to part with doubles for the superlights yet, but maybe in time. Their mounting wires are set back to minimize wear, and larger sizes feature weight-reducing holes. As the name suggests, these cunningly sized and shaped nuts work well in standard placements but also have and efficient camming system. In Choosing Climbing Nuts, Paul offers some useful advice on what type to choose and how to rack them. They feature holes on the larger faces of the alloy head and they fit great in flared cracks. Fast Shipping and the best prices! Moved Permanently The document has moved here. They’re designed to integrate seamlessly with any standard trad rack, complementing cams, nuts, and other protection devices. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Sep 26, 2025 · Putting the DMM HB Alloy Offset Through Its Paces The DMM HB Alloy Offset is a uniquely shaped piece of climbing protection designed to fit where other nuts fail. 3 days ago · Does the DMM Wire Torque Nut Set Live Up to Its Name? The DMM Wire Torque Nut Set promises versatile protection for parallel-sided cracks, boasting multiple placement options and reliable strength. DMM Gear Trad Climbing Review 4. 0 out of 5 stars Dec 13, 2009 · We used the nut in both orientations more than we did with other nuts we tested, possibly because of the two completely different shapes. Superlight Rocks are among the lightest nuts on the market and they have color-coded heads that match all other Wild Country and DMM units. The Offset Stopper features noticeably more rounded corners with a shallow face scoop. These tiny Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. The other clear option available when considering Offsets is, of course, the DMM Offsets which come in a set of 5 in the 7-11 sizes (slightly larger sizes than the Wild Country option).

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